Tuesday, December 25, 2018

4.4.4 Farming in New Caledonia


Farming in New Caladonia

Meanwhile on the farm circuit, I met Sgt. V.T. Kallus who was in charge of a small group of American soldiers in Bourail, New Caledonia involved in a cooperative arrangement with French farmers to provide fresh vegetables for American troops, one of three such units in New Caledonia.  Vaclav Kallus was a Czech. from South Texas, a 1930 graduate of Texas A&M, and a County Agent from Kingsville, Texas prior to WW II. 

Seeing things were falling apart at the Homestead in Noumea and sensing an EVEN better deal, I volunteered to move from the big city to help Sgt. Kallus provide fresh vegetables to the troops brought back from combat if he could swing a transfer for me.  He was delighted at the prospect of having another Aggie in his group and somehow pulled it off.  I remained a member of the 27th Station Hospital, but on Detached Service to the large Quartermaster organization that provided the fresh vegetables.
           
Now THAT was the sweetest LEGAL deal I ever heard of in World War II.  In addition to Sgt Kallus and me, there was Joe Comstock (a nephew of the Comstock of INSECT TAXONOMY fame), Jim Wiler and  Lewis, (a former fullback at the University of Georgia).  We lived in a Quonset hut in a coconut grove on the largest farm in the area, Gabe, owned by someone in Noumea but operated by the Renivier family.

            The farming was done under contact between the French farmer and the US Government.  The farmers provided the land and we furnished seeds, fertilizer and all tractor work.  They did the harvesting (all but personal use going to the Americans) and we arranged for the pickup and purchases.  It was all on paper; no money changed hands and we didn't even get a commission, but we did have a lot of friends on both sides of the business.

We had a Farmall F20, a Farmall H, a Ford Ferguson and a Caterpillar (a bulldozer without the blade) that was used mostly for clearing virgin land.  Kallus spent full time managing the operation: working out what should be planted and when; procuring the seeds and fertilizer; scheduling the tractor work (plowing, disc harrowing, fertilizing, planting, cultivating and, with root crops like potatoes, harvesting); arranging for the purchase (by requisition) and pickup by eligible military organizations and ensuring the crops were harvested, of acceptable quality, in the quantities stipulated and ready to be loaded on the trucks. 

The latter responsibility was particularly important; none of the truck drivers and few of the Quartermaster or Mess personnel who sometimes came along to overview the transaction knew much about either quality or quantity in fresh vegetables. Besides, it wasn't THEIR money being spent; it was the Government's and it wasn't REAL money, they just signed a requisition.  In contrast, the French Farmers knew it was REAL money and they wanted to sock away as much as they could while the bonanza lasted.  They were colonials and had been scratching to survive on mostly a subsistence and barter system (New Caledonia's most important prewar export was deer hides); now there was an opportunity to make American dollars in amounts they had never dreamed of.  Most were as honest as farmers anywhere, a few weren't; but if someone wants to overpay you, it makes up for the times that the crops failed or prices were depressed.

Wiler was the mechanic and spent most of his time working on the tractors and accessary equipment and the two or three pickup trucks assigned to our unit, but he filled in on the tractor work when all the equipment was working or we were under real pressure.  Lewis spent most of his time on the "Cat", clearing land for new crops; we had approximately 450 acres under cultivation when I got there, but it wasn't enough.  I got little time on the Cat, but what a feeling of power to uproot trees with a huge "brush plow" or pull even larger ones out of the ground with a cable.

            That left the bulk of the routine tractor work to Joe Comstock and me.  I don't know how he, from an upstate New York and University of Cornell background, felt about our job; but I knew I had found a bird's nest on the ground.  With my only previous farming experience being a Georgia Stock (a single mold board, hand held, walking plow) and a mule, this was the way farming should be done.  Besides, I was not only not in Guadalcanal or Bougainville or even downtown Noumea, I was driving a tractor, wearing whatever I wanted to wear, and watching the soil turn up behind my plow, harrow or middle buster. 
  
We ate with the farmer for whom we were working; lunch if it was a one day job or near enough to Gabe to return to the Quonset hut by tractor for the night or multiple meals and sleeping accommodations if several days work were involved.
Because none of them spoke any English, learning French was both a necessity (if you wanted something at meals or the location of the toilet facilities) and made easy by total immersion for days at a time.  It didn't take long for me to become comfortable in the language, but I was amazed one day to realize that I was thinking in French when I was talking in French.

Because we didn't have enough personnel for a cook or rations, we were paid $2.40 a day per diem (more than my pay as a buck private) and required to provide our own food.  That was NO PROBLEM; we had first crack at all the vegetables, our farmer friends brought us pork or beef when they slaughtered (no one Upcountry had refrigeration, so there was a short half-life for fresh meat) and chickens occasionally appeared at our door. Our staple fresh meat, however, was provided by the resident imported Sambar deer.  Someone and I willingly volunteered, had to walk up the mountain with a rifle, sit down and wait until a deer came walking by, then shoot it fatally and drag it down the mountain. We could circumvent that by jack-lighting them at night while they munched on our corn, tomato, or other seedlings; it was more efficient and about as productive, but not any fun.
           
            Not only did our farmer friends contribute to our larder, the army organizations with whom we did business were even more generous.  Almost all of them brought us cases of canned vegetables, fruit, meat, beer and soft drinks, bread, etc. every time they came up for fresh vegetables; "we're not trying to influence you, but we just happened to have more beer or whatever than we needed and thought our friends up in the country might be able to use it".  At Sgt Kallus' suggestion, I built a commissary behind the Living Quarters: a wooden floor, sides and frame for a pyramidal tent, and sturdy wooden storage lockers
with a hasp and lock to store all our supplies.  Some visitors from various Officers Messes even brought whiskey and we had to be sure that was adequately secured.

It was not all fun and games; eight or ten hours on a tractor seat is work and once I was alone at the Quonset hut when three 6X6's arrived, loaded with 100 pound bags of fertilizer. One of the truck drivers was kind enough to drag the bags to the back of the truck, the other two slouched in the cab while I
climbed onto the bed and dragged the sacks to where I could hoist them onto my shoulder and carry them to a storage area.  I unloaded, carried and stacked at least 50,000 pounds of fertilizer in two or three hours.  

The French families liked us or at least felt sorry for us because we were so far from home.  The Reniviers took me in almost as a member of the family; although Msr. Renivier obviously had some reservations about my intentions in regard to his daughter, Andre.  I could understand that; I also had some conflicts between my marital commitments and my male hormones. Fortunately, although I'm not sure I appreciated it at the time, the French chaperon system (in which NO unmarried female is EVER allowed to be alone with ANY male, especially a married one) effectively forestalled any test of Andre’s virtue and my faithfulness. 

Madame Renivier treated me like the son she never had, there was an older daughter married to the Sgt Major of the French Army unit in Noumea.  Not only was I often invited to dinner, they also included me on their frequent picnics where we fished with dynamite, and shot pigeons, deer and flying foxes (fruit bats). Dynamite fishing the way we did it was exciting: each of the fishermen waded out into the lagoon (New Caledonia is almost completely surrounded by a barrier reef) carrying a burlap bag and a stick of dynamite with a lighted cigar in his mouth. 

            When a school of fish appeared on the surface, we would try to intercept them.  When in range, we would light the fuse and throw the stick of dynamite just ahead of the swimming school of fish.  If your timing was perfect, the dynamite exploded near the surface and in the middle of the school.  Then you ran or swam through waist to shoulder deep water to retrieve the stunned fish before they recovered, grabbing and shoving them into the bag.  Most common were mackerel-like fish or some species of bonito, averaging about five pounds.  Occasionally we had to compete with small to medium size sharks for the quarry and adding to the excitement was the knowledge that if you held the stick too long or had a fast burning fuse you could end up at
best short one hand.  You could also use hand grenades, but they weren't nearly as effective and a lot less exciting. 

            I spent a lot of time wading in the lagoon, collecting shells and observing the snails, crabs and other invertebrates.  I really fell in love with marine biology on the barrier reef and lagoons of New Caledonia.  The mangrove swamps were also fascinating: I chased mudskippers (a small fish that can breathe out of water) and fiddler and other shore crabs through the mud with virtually no success.  There were no native mammals other than the fruit bats and possibly a species of black rat.  The Norway rat and Sambar deer had been imported and both flourished in the absence of their normal predators.  The only snake was a burrowing boa that I never saw and I don't remember any lizards or frogs.  I did find a large female sea turtle that had come ashore to lay eggs on the beach.  She and the eggs were delicious and provided gourmet food for a lot of people for several days. 

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